Rennes, the historic capital of Brittany, combines medieval architecture with contemporary vigour in a way that few French cities manage quite so well. Half-timbered houses lean over cobbled streets in the old quarter, while wide boulevards and modern cultural venues show a city confident in the present. It's a natural base for exploring Brittany's inland countryside, positioned inland yet within easy reach of the Breton coast.
The city's location makes it accessible for British holidaymakers arriving via Saint-Malo — just 65 kilometres south — or flying into Nantes Atlantique. Staying in self-catering rentals in the surrounding countryside puts you within comfortable reach of Rennes itself while enjoying the quieter rhythms of rural Brittany.
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About Rennes
Rennes rebuilt itself after a catastrophic fire in 1720 that destroyed much of the old town. What survived — the timber-framed houses in the streets around Place des Lices and Place Sainte-Anne — now forms one of the best-preserved medieval quarters in Brittany. The newer Georgian-style stone buildings that replaced the burnt districts give the city its distinctive dual character: Gothic lanes opening suddenly onto rational 18th-century squares.
The city has always served as Brittany's administrative heart, and the Parlement de Bretagne stands as a physical reminder of that role, its ornate interiors a statement of regional pride. Today Rennes is a university city with over 60,000 students, which keeps the café culture lively and the cultural calendar busy year-round. The presence of Les Champs Libres, a striking modern cultural centre housing the library, museum, and planetarium, signals a city that takes its intellectual life seriously.
For visitors staying in nearby gîtes, Rennes offers urban amenities without urban sprawl — you can park, visit the Saturday morning market at Place des Lices (one of the largest in France), explore the museums, and be back in the countryside by afternoon. It's a practical rhythm that suits self-catering stays, where you control your own timetable.
Things to do near Rennes
Parc du Thabor deserves an hour or two: ten hectares of formal French gardens, English-style parkland, rose beds, and an aviary, all laid out by the 19th-century landscape architect Denis Bühler. The Cathédrale Saint-Pierre de Rennes, rebuilt in neoclassical style after the medieval structure collapsed, houses a gilded altarpiece worth seeing. For a more contemporary cultural experience, Les Champs Libres brings together exhibitions, science displays, and Breton heritage under one dramatic roof designed by Christian de Portzamparc.
The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Rennes holds a surprisingly strong collection, from Egyptian antiquities to Impressionist paintings, and admission is very reasonable. If you're travelling with children, Parc des Gayeulles offers walking trails, a small farm, and plenty of open space on the city's northern edge. Brocéliande Gardens, a little further out, provides a themed amusement park experience based on Arthurian legend — appropriate given the proximity to the forest of Brocéliande where Merlin supposedly sleeps.
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Food & drink
Breton food culture revolves around buckwheat galettes, seafood brought in from the coast, and cider produced in the surrounding orchards. The Saturday market at Place des Lices is where locals stock up on vegetables, cheeses, charcuterie, and oysters — useful if you're self-catering and want to cook with proper regional ingredients. Rennes sits in cider country, and you'll find both sweet and dry varieties, as well as chouchen, a Breton mead made with honey.
If you want to eat out, Au Parc des Bois offers French cooking in a guinguette setting near Parc des Gayeulles, with a terrace that works well in decent weather. Otherwise, the streets around Rue Saint-Georges and Rue Saint-Michel hold plenty of crêperies and bistros where you can eat well without fuss.
Getting there
The closest ferry crossing for most British visitors is Saint-Malo, 65 kilometres north, served by Brittany Ferries from Portsmouth. From Saint-Malo, Rennes is a straightforward drive south on the N137, taking roughly an hour. If flying, Nantes Atlantique is 107 kilometres away with regular connections to UK airports. Eurostar passengers arriving at Paris Gare du Nord can continue by TGV to Rennes, around 310 kilometres, with the high-speed service taking just over two hours. Caen/Ouistreham (Brittany Ferries, also from Portsmouth) is another option at 153 kilometres, though the Saint-Malo route is generally quicker for reaching this part of Brittany.