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Where to Stay in Provence

A field of lavender in flower with Mont Ventoux behind it in Provence

Lavender below Mont Ventoux. Photo: Robert Brink, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Provence is lavender, olive groves, Roman towns and long lunches in the shade, and it's at its best when you have a gîte to come back to. Each part of it feels different, so choosing where to stay matters more than in most regions. Here are the three areas where our hosts are, the gîtes just over the Rhône that make a good base too, and when to go. You book direct with the host, with no booking fees.

St Rémy and the Alpilles

The Alpilles is a small range of sharp limestone hills south of Avignon, with vineyards and olive groves round its edges. Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is the town everyone falls for: shady squares, fountains, good restaurants and the asylum where Van Gogh painted. Les Baux-de-Provence sits on a rock at the other end of the hills, and Avignon and Arles are each under an hour away.

Limestone ridges and scrub in the Alpilles hills near Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
The Alpilles above Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. Photo: Christian Ferrer, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Mont Ventoux and Vaison

The north of the Vaucluse is quieter and greener, with vineyards and cherry orchards under the bare white summit of Mont Ventoux. Cyclists come from all over Europe to ride up it, and walkers have the GR paths. Vaison-la-Romaine has a Roman bridge still in use and a medieval upper town, and the villages round about have weekly markets.

The single stone arch of the Roman bridge over the Ouvèze at Vaison-la-Romaine
The Roman bridge at Vaison-la-Romaine. Photo: Torsade de Pointes, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

The hills behind the Côte d'Azur

Inland from Antibes and Nice, the hills are full of pine woods and perched villages, and much calmer than the coast. You are close enough for a day on the beach or in Nice, and back in time for a swim before supper.

Just over the Rhône: the Ardèche and the Gard

Cross the Rhône to the west and you are no longer in Provence on the map, but the light, the stone villages, the markets and the heat are much the same. The Ardèche has its famous gorge and the natural arch of the Pont d'Arc, with canoeing, caves and walking. These gîtes are between about an hour and a quarter and two hours from Avignon, and some have views back to Mont Ventoux.

The natural limestone arch of the Pont d'Arc over the river Ardèche
The Pont d'Arc on the river Ardèche. Photo: Celeda, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

When to go

The lavender flowers from about mid-June to mid-July on the lower plateaux, and into early August higher up around Sault. July and August are hot and busy, and a pool stops being a luxury. May, June and September are the best months for walking, cycling and sightseeing, with warm days and quieter roads.

Getting there

  • Flying: Marseille is best for Saint-Rémy and the Ventoux, and Nice for the Côte d'Azur. Nîmes and Montpellier suit the Gard.
  • Train: Eurostar to Paris, then the TGV from Gare de Lyon to Avignon TGV, about 2 hours 40.
  • Driving: about 9 hours 30 from Calais to Saint-Rémy or the Ventoux before stops, and nearer 12 to the Côte d'Azur. Breaking the journey for a night makes it far more pleasant.

Have a gîte in Provence?

Plenty of UK guests come to our site looking for gîtes in Provence, and we would like to show them more places to stay. If you have a gîte or holiday cottage in Provence, list it with us. There is one yearly fee and no commission on bookings.

Frequently asked questions

Which is the best area of Provence to stay in?

For markets, restaurants and easy sightseeing, Saint-Rémy and the Alpilles. For cycling, walking and quieter villages, the Mont Ventoux area. For the beaches and Nice, the hills behind the Côte d'Azur.

Are there gîtes in Provence with a private pool?

Yes. The St Rémy country cottage and La Maison aux Alazards both have private pools. Lou Messugo's pool is shared with the host's family.

Is the Ardèche in Provence?

No. The Ardèche is on the west bank of the Rhône in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region, and the Gard is in Occitanie. Both are close to Provence and similar in feel.

When is the lavender in flower?

From about mid-June to mid-July on the lower plateaux, and into early August around Sault.

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